This page covers more detail on job tasks, beyond the basics, but also goes back and gives more detail on the BASICS.
COURSE #2, LESSON #1
#1) THE GOOD JOB YOU'RE DOING CAN BE DESTROYED BY YOU SHITTING IN THE POOL
When you try to get jobs thru AGMC as an independent contractor it's like a sport in which the best performer wins the bigger more frequent jobs. The best and biggest jobs go to whoever has shown them self to be the better movers. However, the "better" movers are the ones who are doing all the non-moving-furniture aspects well also, not just the ones who get the customer's furniture moved well.
Just like there are basic things you need to do, there are also basic things you need to NOT do. A common misunderstanding that can happen is that a mover can easily gain an incorrect understanding of the job he is hired to do. Getting jobs thru AGMC is the "sport" of commercial enterprise, which means this is a competition of seeing who is better at making the business money. That means, knowing how to move and load things is only half of the picture that can be utterly destroyed by dropping the ball on the other half of the picture, which is being being honest, hard working, reliably contactable by phone, reliably on time, non-threatening, nicely presentable to the customer, not stealing, not losing equipment, not threatening, and always paying what you owe.
This is not the sport of the isolated skill of loading a truck without considering the other critical factors which are just as important . If you look at the bottom line of the income you are generating for the business, AND the risk of the loss of money and extra work you are creating for the business, you can see an entirely different picture of who is performing better than who.
An "Ace" skilled mover who has stolen property (or money), not shown up for a moving job, smells like alcohol on the job, and doesn't pay what he owes has a worse performance history (a lower ranking) than a new unskilled mover who is honest and hard working and reliable.
It takes a lot of "correcting" and clean new performance history for a disgraced mover to slowly build his reputation and ranking back up, which should be unexpected and considered a "gift" for this chance to even be allowed.
So understand that no matter how good you are at some aspects of moving skills, you will flush all that down the toilet, or at least lower you value as a mover to that of a low skill newbie, if you steal from customers or crewmen, don't pay what you owe, drink or smell like alcohol on the job, molest a child, threaten customers or crewmen, not show up to job appointments, or do things that risk major liability damage claims or loss of company reputation. If you do or have done any of these "flush-down-the-toilet" things, your value as a mover is ten times lower than it would otherwise be, making even the "best" mover have a lowered business value like or less than an unskilled "new guy". If you do these things you cancel out the value of your skill and long work history, and make yourself "just not worth it" or maybe barely worth it sometimes.
So, remember that the consequence you have caused for you doing "flush-down-the-toilet" things is to make "the new guy that doesn't know anything " more valuable than you and therefore get more jobs than you, regardless of your isolated skill level. If you take and spend other mover's money or do other "flush-down-the-toilet" things, and then "cry" about other people getting more work than you, you're like the guy that defecates in a public pool and then cries "prejudice" and "unfairness" about being kicked out of the pool when caught doing it, blaming everyone else but himself. Take responsibility for the consequences of your actions.
Also, if you hear another mover complaining about other movers getting jobs that he should be getting, know that the complaining mover is not telling you about the money or property he stole, or what other problems he's had in the past. The jobs go to who earns them by their whole record of performance, not just the isolated "cleaned up" story they are telling you about.
There also exists the category of "problems" that don't quite rise to the level of "flush-down-the-toilet" deeds, but that still cause a lowering of a contractor's ranking more and more each time they are done, and so can cumulatively cause a "good" mover's ranking and job frequency to drop lower than it would otherwise be, possibly below the ranking of other lesser skilled movers.
A good way to zero in on finding out what is being counted most against you as far as problems that are believed that you are doing, is for you to ask for feedback during your training sessions.
TRAINING SESSIONS
Other than just reading this material, the main way to find out about and work on these Pro-Mover-Basics is to participate in group conference call training sessions during your two hour minimum jobs. This is because you are paid an extra ten dollars on each of those two hour minimum jobs if you join in on a group conference call training session with AGMC at the end of that job. Are you joining in on a group conference call training session with AGMC on each of your two hour minimum jobs? If not, you are headed for a crash and your pay as a helper is $60 instead of $70, and for a Lead it's $95 instead of $105.
COURSE #2, LESSON #2
Be the best at all of the things this course talks about. If you want to make more money than just enough to barely make it from month to month, and instead actually be able to sky dive, go catch some lobsters, and buy some land, then you have to make yourself so good at your job, hassle free, nice to work with, beneficial and profitable to the people that might chose your services that you make them WANT very much to choose your service. You control them by being the most beneficial and valuable to them. You make yourself disposable when you are a hassle, risky, and not the best choice.
That means always answer your phone; be consistently early to your jobs; go to bed early enough to get a good night's sleep; work hard and fast, pay what you owe; get up early enough to have time for all you need to do; set your alarm; study this professional training course and get certified (like any electrician or dentist would do for their profession); always speak professionally, courteously and nicely; pay what you owe; don't steal, and DO all the other things this training course talks about that CAUSE you to be a better shopping choice than your competitors. If you don't do these things your are CAUSING shoppers to not choose your services.
You succeed by making it in your moving customer's, moving company's or referral service's best interest to hire you over other movers. Make yourself the best choice. When you make them money, and you are reliable, are nice to work with, don't cause them problems, and are actually the best shopping choice for the moving customer and your moving company, you make them want to choose you in proportion to how "good" you are, and this puts the control in your hands instead of seemingly in theirs'.
But if you aren't normally five minutes early, miss phone calls, take breaks on the job without telling anybody, are not the hardest worker, are not working on getting certified, haven't paid what you owe, aren't easy to talk to or have spoken aggressively, etc. by you providing less, you make yourself a worse shopping choice, and so you make the people who might choose your service want to NOT choose you as much (or maybe not at all at some point).
The better service you provide to others, the more money you will make yourself. Some people make the mistake of thinking that an "employee" has less freedom of choice on how to do things than an independent contractor or independent business. But the truth is, there is less leeway to make mistakes and do things wrong as an independent contractor, because your income is more immediately harmed by mistakes and unhappy customers, and so it's even more important to be getting your job done right and not screw up when you're a contractor. That means, when you're a contractor or your own business owner you have to hold yourself to a much higher standard of "getting it right and not screwing up" than as if you were an employee.
COURSE #2, LESSON #3
Yes, we've talked about your phone in Course #1 THE BASICS, but the fact is that near 90% of movers attempting to get jobs thru AGMC still don't reliably answer their phones, and have an explanation as to why they didn't answer their phone or call back quickly. "It's because ......". Yet they still wonder where all the jobs are. So a little more explanation is given here.
In the moving business, there is only one tool that is more important to have and be skilled at than a hand-truck, and that's your phone. You need your phone to accept and get the job appointment, get the map to direct you to your jobsite, take pictures of pre-existing damage, to get a call from your moving company to let you know the start time of the job has changed, for you to call your moving company to let everyone know you're going to be late, to clock in, to answer a question the customer or your moving company has (sometimes urgent), to take care of a problem, to update the customer, to record your hours & pay, on and on.
Your moving company knows that the reliability of your phone contact is critical to you working out as a mover, and so each time you don't answer your phone or don't return a call or text quickly not only wastes the caller's (AGMC's) time, it also causes worry that you won't be contactable on a future call either, and indicates you don't have your phone with you to be able to be doing the critical functions of your job, and so makes your value as a mover drop significantly through the bottom of the floor.
#4 RAPID AND RELIABLE PHONE RESPONSE
In order to have a chance at being successful, you have to nearly always answer your phone or call back quickly. Expect a rapidly declining size and frequency of job offers if you don't. You would more correctly understand the job requirements for success in this business as understanding that this work type is primarily a PHONE ANSWERING SERVICE with a little moving work on the side, not a moving service with a little phone answering on the side. Miss a moving-business call and the client calling you will be much less likely to want to do further moving-business with you in the future. This should not be considered optional or as a side issue. It's THE PRIME MOVER SKILL.
The skill of being able to nearly always answer your calls (or return calls quickly) is on top of the list of key mover skills, and you will fail or flounder along without this skill. That's the main reason why your phone is THE most important mover's tool you will ever own, and the skill of keeping your phone on you (in your pocket), charged and ready to answer is the most important mover skill you will ever learn.
Phone use is called a "Skill" here because it's no accident when you don't usually answer your phone or at least call back right away, it's due to you not learning and practicing a good phone handling technique. If you were going to make one million dollars tomorrow if you at least called back any missed calls within five minutes, could you FOR SURE do that? Yes, of course you could if you decided it was important enough. You need to understand that this is primarily a phone job, not just a moving job, and so you'd set alarms, fix and charge your phone, keep your phone in your pocket, keep a charger in your car, get a good night's sleep, etc. That's what it takes to be a successful business man. If you don't do this don't blame anyone but yourself for your lack of success. If there's a problem, like you can't make it to the job, or you're going to be late, you have to always CALL your appointment setter and let them know as soon as possible, text only is not sufficient.
These are the reasons why your phone is THE most important mover's tool you will ever own, and the skill of keeping your phone on you, charged, and ready to answer, is the number one mover skill you need to master.
#5) CALL INSTEAD OF TEXT
In fact, any time that the speed of communication with AGMC is important (message getting through within 20 minutes), like a time sensitive problem/emergency about a job, you should call AGMC, not just text, because calls will be noticed and at least returned right away (as soon as possible), while texts are sometimes not looked at for a while (over 20 or 30 minutes). Doing this consistently makes you valuable, while missing this even once makes you a catastrophe to be avoided. Acceptance reply texts to job offer texts are not a time sensitive emergency. If you are already expected to do a job due to prior communications, and you get a job offer text about that job only the evening before the job and you then can't do that job (you need to decline the job, or can't stay for the whole job) this is a time sensitive matter/emergency about the job because a substitute for you needs to be searched for for you as soon as possible (to have time to reach people), so this would be a time sensitive issue that you would need to call about.
#6: KEEP AGMC INFORMED
Keep AGMC informed. I once had a mover show up to job at a storage unit and wait at the gate for a half hour before the customer finally called me and asked where the mover was. That mover didn't call me or the customer to let anyone know he was there waiting at the gate to be let into the storage unit gate. He felt he should be paid for that half hour of him waiting, without him letting anyone know he was waiting. He did get paid, but only to get rid of him without a hassle, and of course he was never called for more work again. If there's a problem on a job that needs to be fixed, CALL AGMC so AGMC can at least address the problem. Keep AGMC informed.
#7: BEING OUT OF PHONE CONTACT
In this business, at least when getting jobs booked thru AGMC, there are often times when immediate or very quick phone contact is critical, when not on a job, on "off" hours, and on off days. This might be to find out and resolve a problem that a previous customer has ("hey where's the key to my house that the mover had? I can't get back in!!), or it might be about any one of dozens of other emergencies that need resolution quickly. For this reason, AGMC considers movers that can not be reliably reached by phone fairly quickly, as not a potential mover that AGMC would recommend for regular work. Therefor, you should only sign up (or remain signed up) to get jobs thru AGMC if you are completely OK with this understanding. Especially if you owe some other mover or AGMC money past due deadlines, and then become unreachable by phone, that doesn't work. If you're not a regular mover, then it doesn't matter so much because you are rarely going to be called anyway. But if you are trying to be a regularly working mover, or at least higher up on the rankings, if you have a time span where you want to be out of contact for a while you need to tell AGMC ahead of time that this "out of contact time span" is coming up before disappearing, or else AGMC might be trying to call you dozens of time for some emergency and marking your ranking down further and further for every one of the missed dozen or so calls.
Being on time means being early. Five to ten minutes early is ideal, and being closer to ten minutes early can be extra insurance, especially if you've been late recently. If you're not early you're late.
#9: EFFECTS OF BEING LATE
In a moving job it can be a very big problem to be late. It's not like showing up late for a McDonalds job. If it's a two man job, every minute you are late is a minute you make the customer and your partner stand there tapping their toes wasting their time waiting for you, upset at you for being an incompetent "xxxxxxxxx". You are costing both the other movers and the customer their lost wasted time waiting for you, and costing AGMC its reputation, which translates into $20 to $50 of "damages" you would be costing other people. Are you going to pay that? Likely not, but understand that your value as a mover and your ranking (and the jobs you get) all drop according to the significant loss you are costing other people.
If you're late on a larger crew, and you miss the first five minutes of the job, you not only make us all look bad, you miss the "walk-thru" instructions the customer gave in the first five minutes, and so you don't know what not to take, what special thing we're supposed to do or not do with the thing you don't know about, and so your ability to do your job over all the hours that follow is messed up.
Being late fifteen minutes is not at all like working fifteen minutes less, and getting paid for 15 minutes less. It decreases your value (and the rest of the crew's value) for the whole job, makes the whole crew look less competent, and so diminishes tips for everyone besides the sales of the future jobs to come, costing an income loss to all the other movers you are associated with.
If you accept jobs thru AGMC, you are accepting the agreement that if you are late to a job appointment, you will pay $1 for each two minutes you are late, to the other movers who were on-time to that job appointment. If there's only one other mover who was on time, he gets all of it. If there were multiple other movers who were on time, the penalty fee is divided among them. Remember, they might have been there ten minutes early trying to earn bigger tips from the customer.
#10: WHY AIM 10 MINUTES EARLY
A skilled mover knows that there are often going to be things that happen to cause a delay of up to about ten minutes. Can't find your keys or wallet, a traffic slow-down, a train, need the bathroom, need gas, a phone call, a few things you need to do before you leave your house, on and on. So the skilled mover actually aims at being to his appointments ten minutes early. That way when the up-to-ten-minute delay happens, being seven minutes late means he's three minutes early which is perfect. If you don't google-map the appointment start location the night before an appointment, to know how long it will take to get to the job start location, how are you going to know what time you need to leave your house to get to the job site ten minutes early? If you aren't almost always a little early, you need to re-write your idea of when you need to plan to get started for the day, or you ARE a second rate mover. If you treat all the times you need to be somewhere like your clock was set ten minutes forward, you'd only very rarely be late.
#11: IF A SECOND INSTANCE OF BEING LATE
If you are having multiple instances of being more than five minutes late to your appointment times, that means however late you are being, that's how much earlier than your appointment time you need to aim for arriving, plus ten minutes. For example, if you've recently been fifteen minutes late to appointments, you need to aim to leave your house twenty five minutes earlier than you've been leaving (15+10). If you're going to be late, it is very important for you to call (not text) your moving company to let them know you're going to be late, before you are late. You are supposed to clock-in by text to who ever texts you your job appointment information, and do so immediately when you arrive at your appointment start location. If you don't clock in, that doesn't hide the fact that you're late, it is assumed if you are hiding the information of when you arrived it's likely because you're late, and so counts as WORSE than being late because you're late AND you are trying to hide it. So be early AND clock in to get credit for it.
#12: USE HELP
If you're having a few instances of being late, and have a spouse, partner or girlfriend, that wants you to make a lot of money, ask them help you make sure you have your alarms set, get enough sleep, and be ready to leave on time. They might actually make the difference between you messing up or not. Let them choose to be that resource for you, by you asking for help and letting them know your schedule.
COURSE #2, LESSON #4
Your moving crew is a sports team. We are in a competition to get the job done quickly, just like a basket ball team trying to get the ball down the court quickly. You need to decide if you're going to play as a Pro, or as some weekend guys at the YMCA. Since the customer and/or moving company is likely paying for your time by the hour, a definite aspect of a mover's value is how quick he is at getting things done. If you shave off 20% of the time it takes you to do something, when you multiply that out over the whole job, that shaves 20% off the customer's labor bill for your work, and quadruples the likeliness that the customer is going to be happy with your service. Working hard is what makes us money, while "casual" work speed increases the risk of a not-impressed customer, and so causes less tips and less future jobs for all of us, which is NOT OK.
The feel is the same as if you wanted to win a basket ball game you were playing in, and while you were sweating and running down the court your team mate was casually walking slowly down the court far away from the ball action, letting the other team out-man your team down the court. You'd think "Hey, we're trying to win here and you're ruining it for all of us". A real pro mover always looks like he is at least mindful of the time usage, keeps moving at a good pace, and never just stands there unmoving, waiting for something or someone. If a good mover sees you standing still, unmoving, waiting, even for a couple seconds, he will cringe with frustration. Don't do it. Don't wait or walk slow or casually. You should be making good use of all your time while on the paid clock.
If you think you need to wait for something on a job there is always something else you could do while you're waiting to make good use of your time. You just need the knowledge of how to make use of your time in that situation. If you're up in the truck and you think you need to wait for something, or the customer walks up to talk to you to talk, you could fold used blankets while you're "waiting" and talking. If you're up in the truck and you need to "wait", and there's no used blankets to fold, you could resituate the staged items in a more organized way that's easier for the load-wall builder to pick the things he needs.
You could tear the plastic wrapping off a tape roll and get it ready to use while you're waiting or talking. You could untangle a mess of a ratchet strap. If you are walking back into or out of the house and there's someone else coming through the doorway carrying a sofa, you could either redirect your course to an alternate garage door, or you could look for the most likely to occur contact damage point on the door and hold your hand there to protect it, instead of just standing there doing nothing & calling it waiting. You should always be busy doing something while on the clock. When do you see a good basket ball player standing still waiting?
If you're waiting for someone to go up or down the truck ramp with a hand-truck load, you could step up or down to the side using the truck bumper, which you would do if you really were in a hurry. If you're at a U-Haul facility waiting, check the Free cardboard area for boxes you could use, clean the truck ramp, check for supplies you might need, straighten jumbled ratchet straps. But even if you haven't learned these things from someone or from this course telling you, if you wanted badly enough to keep busy you'd automatically be looking for how to be helpful in every moment and, and you'd find it. You just need to be of the mind-set that we are in an actual race and you want to shave some time off our "score", and provide a good value for every minute the customer is paying for your time.
Since this is a race, it also ruins our crew's "speed time" (like a relay race) if a mover disappears for a while to his car, the bathroom or for a personal call, without clocking out so that the Lead and customer know that person is not on the clock costing the customer wrongly i.e.: "Hey, I'm taking 5". There also might be another mover counting on your help for something thinking you are going to return shortly, and so altering his work to wait for you, which if you didn't let him know you were going to be gone for a while wastes that other mover's time. That's a "fumble of the ball".
If the other movers are saying "where did he go?" that makes the disappearing mover a second rate mover. You need to be clocking in and out when you take a break, by texting to your Lead "out" and "in" at the moment you start and stop a break. The other movers on your job site are noticing the degree to which you keep busy, hurry and don't disappear, and their evaluation of your work ethic (how hard you work, your speed, and your use of time) is talked about and is a significant determiner of the future jobs you get. Don't dissapear.
COURSE #2, LESSON #5
A professionally done moving job is like a dance group's dance routine, in that there's a certain sequence of agreed steps that each of the crew knows to do automatically, without being told, and a pre-agreed way of doing things that lets the crew and moving company know what to expect of each other, allowing a level of coordination, performance and efficiency that could not be achieved otherwise. This course will lay out a special dance routine that makes this coordination possible, and causes the best results for the movers in many ways.
Having a single set agreed-upon dance routine also lets your crew learn and practice that dance routine, which can result in a level of performance not achievable otherwise. And a moving job done right is a performance. It also makes crew members much more interchangeable between moving companies, and more effective and smooth when filling in as a substitute, which can be very helpful at times. This course teaches THE BEST dance routine, or the best options to choose from.
#17: MOVING HELPER CONTRACT
Another core part of your dance routine is the set of contractual agreements between you and your moving company. If AGMC is providing booking help to you, your contract with AGMC is important to learn as well, and that can be seen in the page "HELPER LISTING", (and "LEAD LISTING" for Leads only). Learn them well. Also if you don't have both this contract and a W9 turned into AGMC, don't expect job appointment offers.
#18: MOVING HELPER TERMS AND CONDITIONS
The Moving-Helper contract explains the basic legal agreement you have with AGMC. But the Terms And Conditions on the Moving Helper Listing page of this website explains the relevant business details, like pay rates, pay times, penalties, bonuses, and a whole lot of other things you need to know about the business and payment aspects of your jobs. This website page is about the basics of how to do the moving jobs. That website page (Helper Listing), has the Terms And Conditions that explain how the money works. You need to know that so we're all on the same page about that.
#19: STUDY THIS TRAINING COURSE
You can't study this course properly without making a home-page link to the course on your phone. If you don't have a link to this website on your phone, you are not really trying.
Study this course material by using the ten minute paid training sessions that are required on Two-Hour-Minimum jobs in order to get your extra ten dollars. Also use "down-time" between jobs to make continual progress on reading, studying and passing the tests of this course.
#20: BUY OR WIN AGMC UNIFORMS
Get your uniform together, at least all black, but preferably with a hat and shirt that say "A GREAT MOVING CREW", and "police-type" newer looking (& clean) boots or boot-looking shoes. Your presentation makes a HUGE difference in the perception of your services. You have the option to purchase shirts and hats with "A Great Moving Crew" printed on them from AGMC or possibly from your moving company. Shirts up to Large are $21 each, XXL shirts are $25 each, and 3XL shirts are $27 each. Hats are $25 each. To place your order just call AGMC and give your shirt size and the number of shirts and hats you want to buy.
You can also win shirts and hats in AGMC Mover-Skill competitions, and for completion of stages of the training course.
#21: WEAR YOUR UNIFORM TO WORK
If you are going to wear a uniform, it can help you to text a picture of you in your uniform to AGMC.
#22: GET YOUR EQUIPMENT SET TOGETHER
If you're a Helper, some Lead's like you to bring your own hand hand-truck and tool/drill set, so it can help with your job offer frequency and quality for you to offer this equipment with your services. However, check with your Lead to see what he wants you to bring.
#23: TEXT PICS OF YOUR EQUIPMENT SET TO AGMC
If you do have equipment that you could bring, it helps sell your services for you to text a pic of that set to Phil.
#24: AVAILABILITY SCHEDULE
Text your Availability Schedule to AGMC each Sunday, and update that schedule as soon as you become aware of a needed update. See the Terms And Conditions under the Helper Listing page to see instructions on how to do that.
#25: REPLY TO JOB TEXTS QUICKLY
Even though AGMC might have sent you a text about a job appointment, that doesn't mean you received that text or accepted that job. That's why you need to reply to the text with a confirmation of acceptance, such as "OK", "Thanks", "yes", "confirmed", or "copy". However, if you are declining a job offer you need to call AGMC right away and say so.
#26: IF YOU ARE LATE SEVERAL TIMES
If you've been more than fifteen minutes late over the past month due to not waking up for an appointment, and for your first 20 job appointments you get thru AGMC, an hour before the job you need to text the word "up" to AGMC, meaning your are up, and ready to be on time that day.
#27) AIM AT BEING TEN MINUTES EARLY TO APPOINTMENTS
Aim at being from five to ten minutes early. to your job appointments, with it leaning from 10 to 15 minutes early if you have been late more that ten minutes late recently.
#28) CALL IF YOU ARE GOING TO BE LATE
If you are going to be late (or can't make it), call your moving company to let them know you're going to be late, BEFORE you are late. Text only is not sufficient, becuse texts aren't always looked at right away, and this is a time sensitive emergency.
#29) IF PICKING UP A TRUCK FROM A DISTANT LOCATION LIKE UHAUL, GET THERE EXTRA EARLY
If you're picking up a truck from your own driveway, you don't need to give this truck pick up process extra time. But when you are needing to drive to some other location across town to pick up the truck, like from U-Haul, or even a company truck at an across-town location, you need to get there ten minutes early. If at U-haul, this is because all the other customers show up on the hour or half hour, and you don't want to be wasting time waiting in line. If it's a company truck across town, it's not uncommon to need to take care of some unexpected thing because you're picking up the truck from someone else. Just get there early if you want to know you can be on time.
#30: WHEN DRIVING ACROSS TOWN TO PICK UP A TRUCK, TEXT "AT TRUCK PICK UP" TO AGMC, OR "U" (FOR AT UHAUL)
When you arrive at your across-town truck pick up location, clock in with AGMC via a text to AGMC stating "At truck pick up", "at U-Haul" or "u". One of reasons clocking-in is helpful is that if the customer calls in to AGMC and asks if the crew is on track to be on time, the answer can be "yes the crew clocked in at the U-Haul ten minutes ago". You don't need to do a "truck clock-in" if you are picking up the truck from your driveway.
#31: CHECK JOB INSTRUCTIONS FOR NEEDED SUPPLIES, AND GET SUPPLIES FROM U-HAUL IF NEEDED
Mover picking up truck should look at their job appointment instructions, and at the supplies in the truck to find out if you need any additional supplies, and then stop to get any needed supplies from U-Haul, like mattress bags, rope, boxes, TV boxes, stretch wrap, tape and moving blankets, if you need them. It's also not a bad idea to pick up some of the free boxes in U-Haul's free box area.
#33 IF A U-HAUL TRUCK TEXT PHOTO OF UPPER HALF OF CONTRACT PAGE
Only if picking up a U-Haul truck, after the truck check out, take a clear picture of the whole upper half of the U-Haul contract front page & text it to AGMC. If the photo can't be zoomed in on and seen clear enough to read the words, it's no good. Check this. If the contract is misplaced, we still know later what level to refuel the truck, and we can check to see if the right credit card was charged.
#34) IF PICKING UP A UHAUL, OR IF PICKING UP THE TRUCK FROM SOMEONE ELSE THAT HAD THE TRUCK LAST, TEXT A PIC OF GAS & ODOMETER TO AGMC
If you were the last person to pick up the truck for the previous job, you don't need to re-document the trucks gas and odometer level. However, if you are picking up the truck from someone else (like at U-Haul), you do need to document the gas and odometer to prove the condition it was in when you picked it up.
Take a clear picture of the truck gas gauge and odometer reading in the same picture, and text it to your moving company. Repeat when returning the truck. For U-Haul trucks, this is because gas is stolen from the U-Haul trucks regularly, and this way you can prove you did refuel the truck properly, and avoid refueling fees. For moving company owned trucks this holds people accountable for the gas level.
#35: DOCUMENT THE CONDITION OF THE TRUCK
When picking up a U-Haul truck, examine for and document pre-damage to the truck. Either directly look for any damage that doesn't have an "X" sticker on it and mark it into the "check out app", or take a high resolution picture from the front driver's corner and a second picture from the back passenger's corner that shows the whole truck.
When picking up a company owned truck, if you are picking the truck up from some other mover who previously used the truck, you need to photo-document the equipment and cleanliness status of the truck, by photographing the equipment and floor condition, and texting the photos to AGMC. This way, the pick-up person can't be held accountable for the missing items or mess left by the previous mover who used the truck, and can be compensated for fixing the mess left by the previous mover.
#36: CLEAN THE TRUCK RAMP & FLOOR
If the truck bed floor and/or ramp isn't clean, leaf-blow or clean them, and take a picture of them being cleaned for later presentation to AGMC and the customer.
C
#37: CLOCK IN AT THE CUSTOMER'S LOCATION
Clock in right when you arrive at the customer's load location, by a text to AGMC "at customers" (or "c" for short), lets others know they don't have to kick into action to see if they need to replace you or warn the customer of the team's lateness. This also establishes a key record of being on time and clocking in that contributes to your AGMC ranking.
#38: LEARN WHERE EQUIPMENT GOES
Right after you get to the loading site, if you don't already know where all the equipment is supposed to be stowed, you should see, remember and/or photograph the moving equipment arrangement so that you can know right where to go to get the equipment you need, and where and how to help put back all the equipment at the end of the job. If you don't do this, you can't do the job right.
#39: HELP BACK UP THE TRUCK
If there's a truck being backed up, all helpers should drop everything and rush to key spots around the truck to help be a warning spotter. This is a moment where thousands of dollars of potential damage could happen in five seconds, and so should be a priority over all other activities for the whole crew. If you're the driver, roll your window down so you can hear if someone yells to stop. If you're a spotter, yell or scream if necessary before a collision. Remember, if you can't see the driver in the rear-view mirror, the driver can't see you.
#40: LOOK FOR PARKING DANGER SPOTS
You're not only looking for things behind the truck, you should also be looking for things on all sides, on the ground and up in the air. When the truck turns, the front and back ends swing wide, and can be a dangerous blind spot for the driver. This also applies to when the truck is driving away (pulling back out) in close proximity to objects. It is not your or the driver's choice to decide to be a warning spotter or not when the truck is coming close to collision hazards, IT MUST BE DONE. This gutter picture is what a crew did due to ignoring this prime mover rule. Don't ignore this rule.
#41: USE TRUCK BACKING SIGNALS
When someone is helping to back up a truck, they should NOT just tell the driver where to go. A backing helper should be showing the driver the distance between the truck and a collision hazard, or the distance the truck still needs to go before stopping, not just trying to direct. Short distances should be shown by the distance between the backing spotter's hands, one over the top of the other, not side to side, so a hand will not disappear behind the truck. Long distances can be shown like an airline ground director.
#42: APPROACH CUSTOMER TOGETHER WITH ONLY COUPLE RUGS & STICKY NOTES
Approach the customer's door together as a crew. At this first approach, the Lead and crew should bring only a couple rugs, super sticky notes, some painter's tape, a clip board & a pen to start. Everyone greet the customer with your name while having good eye contact and a friendly demeanor, preferably wearing your moving company shirt and hat, and preferably wear nice looking, clean, all black boot-looking shoes. We are only bringing these few things to start because we don't really know what all is going to be needed yet, and this is just enough for us to do the walk-thru. We'll bring the other stuff later, after we find out what's going on.
#43: THE WALK-THRU
Do a walk-through with the customer to get directions. The non-leads should let the Lead be the only person asking questions to the customer, and not be holding any side conversations. The most the non-leads should be saying during this time is possibly a few complimentary words to the customer. Helpers should be completely busy putting sticky notes on items of special instruction; gathering the easy to move items of special instruction into islands of like instruction; looking for and documenting pre-damage to the house; remembering the customer's instructions, and looking at and remembering every item the customer is giving instructions about.
#45: ON A WALK-THRU, HELPERS SHOULDN'T TALK OR ASK QUESTIONS TO THE CUSTOMER
During the walk-through the non-Lead helpers should NOT be asking the customer questions about the job. That's for the Lead to do, and the Lead may have already asked the customer questions that YOU don't know about, or the Lead might be purposefully NOT asking about something yet, waiting for a different timing. Either way, the question-asking about job instructions during a walk-through is a strategy for the LEAD to be making, not the helpers. If the helpers have a question about the job during this time, they should wait until the end of the walk-through and ASK THE LEAD, NOT THE CUSTOMER.
This is one of the most common mover rules that movers get wrong, and one I, as a Lead, find very disturbing when a moving helper breaks this rule.
#46: ON A WALK-THRU, MEMORIZE FURNITUE SIZES AND LOCATIONS
You should also be memorizing which furniture items are in which rooms, and the sizes of those things, so that you can know right where to go to get the next needed item for loading the truck, and so you can know where these things go in the unload house, as things usually go into an "equivalent" room, in an equivalent arrangement. If you or others don't memorize these items and locations this means you have to walk through the house to look for things every time you need something of a particular type and size, and you need to keep asking "where does this go" at the unload house. All this wasted and needless walking around looking and asking is a huge needless waste of time and turns what could be a good job into an rank amateur performance. There is no more important, needed-skilled, and needed-concentration part of the job than the few moments of the walk-thru.
#47: ON A WALK-THRU, LOOK FOR, DOCUMENT, AND REPORT PREDAMAGE TO THE HOUSE
We just spent a half sentence mentioning that during the walk-through the crew should also be looking for and documenting pre-existing damage to the house. If that little point is zoomed past (because all these explanations are too long and who has time to read all this), the result can be (and has been) needless damage claims of many hundreds of dollars, because it's common for the customers to not be aware of all the pre-existing damage to their own house. If you don't document it, you make the moving company pay hundreds of dollars to fix what we DIDN'T damage. That's other people's money you'd be being flippant about. If you think movers are just waiting for the walk-thru to be done so they can get started moving, you have no idea what the moving business is.
#48: ON A WALK-THRU, HAVE NO SIDE CONVERSATIONS
It is insulting to both the customer and the Lead for other crewmen to be holding side conversations during this "order taking" time, like your waitress talking to her boyfriend on her phone while taking your order at a restaurant. This is the customer's few moments to receive all focus, and for you to not miss an instruction. A good rule for a moving crew to have is if any crewman side-converses during the walk-through they owe 20 pushups to the Lead right when the walk-thru is done.
#49: AFTER WALK-THRU, HELP RE-POSITION TRUCK
After the walk-through, after you've found out for sure which customer's doors will be being used, this is the time to decide the exact parking spot for the truck, and move the truck into the best position and angle if a better position is available. This is possibly a second truck re-situating.
#50: USE TIRE RAISER BOARDS WHEN NEEDED
If the truck needs to be better positioned, leveled, or cleaned, help do that. If a corner of the truck is low, prop up that corner's tire with boards a curb, or put a high tire in the gutter.
#51: GUIDE DRIVER WITH INFO NOT ORDERS
Remember, If you're providing directions to the truck driver, don't just indicate when to stop, instead show the relevant distance remaining by the distance between you your hands. This allows the driver to act ahead of time to slow down as approaching a stop, and not just need to suddenly slam on the breaks.
#52: STAGE BLANKETS IN HOUSE
Unless the Lead instructs otherwise, bring a stack of moving blankets and set them in the house, along with a tape roll, some green-wrap, and possibly some mover-bands (the big rubber-bands).
#53: IF EQUIPMENT IS NEEDED IN THE TRUCK, SET IT UP
If equipment needs to be brought into the truck from a supplies van, then bring the supplies bag, black straps bag, step ladder, and a pile of blankets to the moving truck. Better equipped Leads will already have their own truck with the equipment already in place in the truck.
#54: LAY OUT THE RUGS & RUNNERS
Unless the Lead instructs the crew to skip the rugs, it's after the walk-thru that we place all the rugs down (other than the original two). These rugs should be placed with the cleanest rugs deeper into the customer's house, and the relatively dirtier rugs towards the door, so that the rugs are getting cleaner as you walk deeper into the house. If it's wet outside, put down more rugs at the top of the ramp, deeper in the truck and possibly on the ramp.
#55: LEAF BLOW PATH
Leaf-blow the path from the truck to the house, so that it will reduce the debris tracked into the house.
#56: DOOR AND FLOOR PROTECTION
Put on door & door-jam covers, put down rugs, and if it's a "high-end" nice house put down the floor runners.
#57: IF NEEEDED, PAD RAILINGS & PUT DOWN CARPET PROTECTION FILM
If it's needed, pad stair railings and banisters, and if the customer wants it (the Lead should ask), put down carpet protection film. Only If it's needed, take the front door or screen door off its hinges.
#58: CLEAR ISLES BEFORE LOADING
Before actually starting to load the truck, you should clear the isle ways. Some of these things in the way can be brought straight to the truck, if they're the right kind of things that will be loaded soon. If they're not the right things to be loaded soon, just move things that are in the way to the side, or into the garage. Start with clear wide paths.
#59: DOCUMENT PRE-EXISTING DAMAGE ON FURNITURE BEFORE MOVING IT.
If you are working as an independent free-lance contractor who has filled out and signed the Independent Contactor paperwork, just like a plumber, you are taking responsibility for any damage you cause, AND you are taking responsibility for any pre-existing damage you find that you do not document or report to the customer before you move the item or work in that area. That means if you DON'T look for and document pre-existing damage, it can cost you and possibly others THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS of loss in the ten seconds that you DIDN'T DO SOMETHING. More important than anything else you do on the job is to look for and photograph pre-existing damage, with your picture showing not only the damage but also the room it's in, taken BEFORE YOU MOVE THE ITEM. By the picture showing the room surroundings, at least enough to identify the room, this proves that the picture was taken BEFORE the item was moved. For example, you can see in this pre-existing damage picture of a TV, it shows the chipped edge but does not show enough of the room to prove where this picture was taken. This instance of NOT doing something did cost a damage claim, with the customer wanting a new TV.
#60: CONTINUE TO LOOK FOR PRE-EXISTING DAMAGE TO HOUSE
This applies especially to pre-existing damage to the wooden floors, walls, and banisters of the house. When you do the "walk-through" of both the load house and the unload house, it is critical to be looking closely for things such as scratches or dings in the wooden floors walls and banisters, particularly in nicer newer houses, and particularly for nicer wooden floors. But even after the walk-thru you should still be continuing to look for pre-existing damage to the house. One missed not-reported pre-existing scratch on a nice wood floor during the walk-through can easily cost a damage claim of between $500 to $1,000. In order to see scratches on wooden floors it's common to have to look at multiple angles to catch the reflected light, which means it doesn't work to just look from one place, and you need good lighting to be able to see. It's not uncommon for the house owner to not have noticed some pre-existing damage to their house, and to blame the movers for it after a move. If you aren't scrutinizing and searching the wooden floors for this pre-existing damage, or if you dissuade others from taking the time to look for pre-existing damage, you are a hand-grenade waiting to cause a major damage suit by NOT doing something, and you make your value as a mover "drop through the floor". This does take time, but that time is necessary to make you a valuable mover.
TRUCK LOADING
#61: ONLY THE LEAD CAN AUTHORIZE THE WAY THE TRUCK IS LOADED.
Only the Lead can load things into the load-wall (tier) of truck, or authorize someone else to do it (wile taking full responsibility for the results). That means, if you're not the Lead, unless the Lead has told you to load something into the load-wall, or authorized you to load into the load-wall, you should not place things into the load-wall, and you should be only bringing things out to the truck under the general strategy outlined by the Lead.
#62: CHECK WITH LOADER FOR STRATEGY OF MOM'S ATTIC
First, (if it's a U-Haul type truck with a Mom's attic) bring the right items to fill the "moms attic" area of the truck. There are some different strategies that the Load-wall builder might choose for the mom's attic, so check with the load-wall builder first to see which type of items he wants up there. If the Lead gives a direction and you don't follow it, even if you're a great mover, you're not a good mover.
#63: KEEP THE LOADER SUPPLIED
Keep the load wall builder busy by continuously bringing enough of the right items into the truck to keep the load wall builder busy for at least five minutes BEFORE you branch off onto other longer projects, such as pad wrapping things you don't need right away, or taking apart a bed or treadmill.
This also means you need to keep coming back to the truck fairly often, at least every five minutes or so (preferably every couple minutes), to make sure the load wall builder remains sufficiently supplied with the right items to keep the load-wall builder busy loading the wall, and not having to go get things himself, as much as possible.
#64: KNOW 4 LEVELS OF LOAD-WALL
After the mom's attic is loaded, switch to loading the truck wall by wall (also called a tier). A "standard" (most common) load wall is composed of four height layers. 1) "BASE" on the bottom, which is weight bearing furniture such as dressers and night stands, 2) "BOXES" on that, (2nd layer up), with heavier boxes lower, lighter higher, 3) SEMI-STACKABLE above the boxes (3rd layer up), like pad wrapped dining chairs, open top boxes, and "squarish" things that you could put a few lighter things on; 4th) "TOP-LOADER"(poorly-stackable) like baskets, guitars, fans, backpacks, and kids toys that you don't want to put anything else on top of.
#65: LOOK AT LOAD WALL BEFORE EXITING TRUCK
Every time a mover comes up into the truck, he should be looking for the next hole (missing thing) in the load-wall that does not already have the right piece staged for it in the truck, and that next needed thing is what is the priority to bring to the truck next.
#66: BRING WHAT'S NEEDED FOR NEXT HOLE IN LOAD WALL
While regular load-walls are being built, the "right" next thing needs to be the best thing that would fill the next hole to build the "four height layer wall" (described in the last point), meaning base, boxes, semi stackable, and top loader, or what would fit along side to tighten that wall. For example if there's enough things staged in the truck to make a whole load wall except top-loader, then movers should be bringing top-loader next. Or if there's a hole where a base piece needs to be filled, first bring the best base piece to fit that hole BEFORE spending time bringing other things. This order of events is important because the load wall builder can't proceed to stack on the base piece hole until the base piece hole is filled, and waiting for a needed piece wastes time.
#67: DON'T JUST BRING THINGS
Bringing the "wrong" thing into the truck at the wrong time is actually worse than not bringing anything at all and just standing around, because bringing the wrong thing clogs up critical space in the truck that's needed FOR STAGING THE RIGHT THINGS. So the skill of picking the right things to bring makes all the difference in the world. On the surface, to an unskilled mover, three people working hard to bring things into the truck might look like they are all providing equal value, but the one who is bringing the "right things" is worth "GOLD", and the ones who are bringing the lesser-right things are worth silver, copper or mud. If you don't know the difference, you'd better learn fast.
#68: STAGE SEVEN FEET BACK
Things brought into the truck should normally be set down to the sides of the truck, seven feet or more back from where the latest load-wall is being built. This is because as the load-walls are built they progress towards the back of the truck, and keep encroaching on where things are staged.
Without this seven foot cleared working area, the staged things can get in the way of things that need to be done to load the wall, and so the staged things need to be moved again a second time back farther to get them out of the way of the work area.
#69: STAGE LIKE ON LIKE
The process of things being set aside in the truck, and not directly into the load-wall, is called "Staging". When things are staged, they should be placed "like on like", and not leaning on other things, so that one thing does not need to be moved to get to another item type. That means, stack medium boxes on medium boxes, and not a bin on top.
#70: ONLY LOADER LOADS
When a helper is bringing something into the truck, if the load-wall builder wants the thing brought right to the load wall, instead of staging it back and to the sides, the loader will say so specifically "Would you bring that right up", or "Please put that right into the hole over there". Otherwise, the non-designated load-wall-builders should not be placing things into the load-wall. The loader is taking responsibility for the load.
#71: CONTINUE BUILDING LOAD WALLS AS LONG AS YOU CAN BUILD FULL LOAD WALLS
Continue to build load walls until you can't build any more full load walls out of the four layers of load-walls, or until you run out of square stackable things, enough to build a full load-wall.
#72: MAKE A TIE-OFF WALL
When you are nearing running out of enough squarish/box shaped things to make a complete load-wall, after your last full load wall of these squarish box shaped things, secure that last wall with a "tie-off-wall". Usually, mattresses and box springs work best to make a tie-off wall. You want to put the mattress against the previous load-wall first. This allows the flexible conforming surface of the mattress to form fit against the irregular protrusions of the last load wall. That means, start the mattress.
Then follow the mattress with the box springs, nice side facing out, and tie it off. The box springs edges provide a non-crushable edge to take the pressure of the ratchet strap (unlike the mattress that can deform permanently). If you need the tie off wall to be higher to hold back the top loader behind it, just put a row or two of boxes down across the floor, against the load, and put the mattress and box spring on top of them.
#73 BED RAILS & POLES TO SIDES OF MATTS
Before strapping off the box-spring tie off wall, fill the sides of the mattress & Box-springs with tall pole-like things, like bed rails, poles & rugs.
#74: SOFAS AFTER TIE-OFF, LEGS TO WALL
By having the large flat soft surface of the box springs be the final surface of the tie off wall, this provides the optimum protective surface for the bak side of the sofa when it's stood up on end. But before a sofa is brought in to the truck, remember to bring long skinny things to fill in the vertical gap to the sides of the boxspring and mattress, like bed railings and long rolled up carpets. These often require being tied separately.
MIRROR SOFA
If the tie off wall consists of a mattress and/or box springs, this is the best place for a sofa and/or loveseat, because the large soft flat surface of a box spring or mattress will not leave any indentation marks in the very easily stretchable or indentable back side of a sofa, even a leather sofa. When you bring a sofa into the truck, it should only be tipped up on end onto a blanket, so that no part of the sofa ever touches the floor. Even if the sofa you have at the time is not leather or vinyl, it's best to practice this way every time.
#75: FILL BETWEEN SOFAS WITH SOMETHING BIG LIKE A REFRIGERATOR.
It's usually best to place a sofa on-end, leaning with it's back-side against the tie off wall, legs against the wall of the truck. The side against the floor should be on a moving blanket, even if it's already pad-wrapped. you could put a love seat opposite a sofa on the other side, and a refrigerator standing up between them. Then the rest of the empty space of that load-wall could be filled with lighter larger boxes, cushions and such, as shown in this picture. Above a refrigerator is a good place to put a recliner.
#76 CHAIRS ARE TOP-LOADER
Recliners and upholstered big chairs should have their backs taken off (if they come off), be pad-wrapped, and be placed as top loader or near the top in the truck. They should normally be placed either legs to the truck side wall & knees down on something very flat, preferably back to the ceiling, or placed standing on their own legs.
#77: LEATHER/VINYL AGAINST FLAT
This is because, especially if they're leather or vinyl, any kind of weight or pressure that isn't completely flat across the whole side of furniture can distort the fabric and leave an impression, and so the top loader position minimizes the weight applied to it. The knees are much better to take the weight than the back.
Only flat & wide area things should go against leather or vinal material, or else it can easily indent the material.
#78: BIG FLAT LIGHT THINGS ON WASHERS
Washer and dryer tops are particularly vulnerable to damage, and so should have set aside large flat soft light-weight customer-items saved as protective tools to use as covers for these appliances, as a safety barrier to go on top of the appliances, in addition to saving very flat things to go next to the appliances. Washers and dryers often come into the truck a wall or two after the sofas. The width of a single box (or single item that goes on top of washers & dryers) should span the entire width of the machine, from edge to edge, so that the weight is transferred onto the edges of the washer or dryer, and minimize pressure in the center if the washer or dryer. If the washer and dryer tops are curved up (not exactly flat), then a good amount of blanketing or cushioning needs to be added to help transfer weight to the sides of the machines, and it's even more important that only light things are put on top of the machines.
#79: IF NOT SURE, CHECK WITH LOADER BEFORE BRINGING
All of the items mentioned so far have their general place in the truck as mentioned, and should only be brought out to the truck as their hole in the truck comes up. Other specialty items not mentioned yet, such as big pictures, lamps, pole lamps, furniture with curved or fragile legs, washer dryer, lawn mowers, and big mirrors should only be brought out when there is a known spot the loader has in mind to put them, or else they are going to be very much in the way and hamper the load.
The wrong items get in the way and don't leave room for the correct items that need to be staged. It takes communication with loader to check in about his plan for things. Also, as we near the last collection of things to load, they should all be brought out to within sight of the loader to allow for an exact final strategy.
#80: AFTER TIE-OFF, TALLER TO SHORTER
After tie off wall, and extra-deep sofas tier, the following tiers should be built working taller to shorter. Tallest things first, working shorter as you go.
#81: LEAVE OUTSIDE AND DIRTIER FOR END
Outside, shed, and dirtier stuff should go in last towards the end of the truck, away from the household items, especially things that have gas, or oil in them, or other things that might leak or rub off their grime.
#82: KEEP BUISY AT END OF TRUCK LOAD
When the last bit is being loaded by the loader, the other helpers should not stand around and wait, there is always something they can do to help. They just need to pay attention to what is being done, and help DO SOMETHING continuously.
#83: PUT EQUIPMENT AWAY IN CORRECT SPOT
If there really doesn't look like there's anything more you can do to help finish the load, or when the Lead confirms we're done, help pick up, fold blankets, and put our equipment away. To be able to know where equipment should go, if you don't already know, you should take a close look at where it's stored at the beginning of the job. It's good to give the blankets a good shake before folding them to help knock off any debris they may have picked up.
ADDITIONAL BASIC MOVER RULES
#84: If you're not sure you can move something safely, don't move it.
Check with your Lead, another mover or your moving company to evaluate alternative methods. If your Lead still doesn't feel he can move the item safely, the Lead should get a liability disclaimer before moving the item.
#85: When you near a bump hazard area, go as slow as a snail. That way even if you bump no damage happens. Also, if there is an equal damage danger on both sides, spilt the clearance difference. If one side of the item you are carrying is so soft that it's not a danger to bump, while the other side could cause damage, let the soft side gently slide along it's bump side so you gain additional clearance on the danger side.
#86: Metal should not touch a finished wood surface. That includes the metal plate of hand-trucks touching the finished surface of furniture or wood floors. There must at least be either cardboard or blanketing in-between.
#87: Fabric should only touch clean surfaces. It shouldn't touch anything but clean carpet, cardboard, plastic wrap, other clean furniture, or the "clean" side of moving blankets, which is either the lighter side, or the side with the U-Haul writing on it. That means fabric should not touch the pavement, a truck floor, a wood floor, or grass. "Fabric" includes everything fabric, including sofas, mattresses, rugs, rug ends, etc. and our equipment fabric, like the fabric of ratchet straps, black straps, and orange straps, doorway covers, and clothing. White or light furniture fabrics should be stretch-wrapped.
#88: Removed hardware of furniture must be put in a baggie (or something similar), and stretch-wrapped to the source item, or placed in a parts box and well labeled as to what it goes to.
#89: RUGS & RUNNERS
When picking up rugs and floor runners at the end of the job, you must fold those things inwards first to trap the dirt and debris, and keep it from spilling out, before taking it outside to shake clean.
#90: ALWAYS SPEAK PROFESSIONALLY
Always speak in only a professional ,courteous calm way to customers, fellow crewmen, anyone around while you're on a job, and to AGMC. Never speak in an angry, disrespectful or threatening manner. No exceptions. Do not respond to someone else's hostility with "though-guy hostility" back at a hostile person, at least not while representing your moving company while on a job, that just exacerbates the problem, and is a big neon sign of a weak unstable-minded person. The strong party will be the peace-maker, talking calmly and trying to de-escalate the situation. Particularly within hearing of a customer, you should never even say un-impressive or risky things, such as about drugs, prison, put-downs about the crew or the work being done, how tired you are, how much you don't want to be there or anything threatening. If you say something it should be positive and helpful. While you are on a job, you are representing and effecting the reputation of the moving company, and if you make yourself look "bad", you hurt the whole company, and so if you do this you should expect your moving company to strongly consider parting ways with you.
#91: THE LEAD IS CUSTOMER COMMUNICATOR
Let the Lead be the main communicator with the customer about directions and questions. Non-leads should run questions thru the Lead (and fellow movers) when possible, unless the mover is sure the Lead wouldn't know or it would have to waste a lot of time going to the Lead. That's because the customer may have already answered that question to the Lead, and the customer re-answering the same question again and again to different movers is not good. Also, it's a higher quality service if the customer knows which single person they should be talking to for directions, and if multiple movers keep asking the customer for directions this confuses the customer as to who the central mover communicator is supposed to be and confuses the web of communicating. All customer instructions that risk large damage claims must be run through the Lead, and not acted upon without the Lead being informed. If a non-lead gets an instruction from the customer that is not carried out immediately, the non-lead should inform the Lead of the instruction so the instruction can be disseminated throughout the rest of the crew. In general, this means the helpers should be having only very limited short communications with the customer, and not be holding "conversations", unless it is at break time. In general, non-leads need to let the Lead do the talking and asking questions to the customer. If a helper is seeing that HUGE mistakes are being made by the Lead not communicating what needs to be communicated with the customer, this should be discussed in private with the Lead and/or with AGMC, but don't just hop in and take over with the customer.
#92: Don't slide things on the customer's floors, unless it's on something else that acts as a glide.
#93: Put mattresses in a mattress bag before carrying them out of their source room. But before you touch a mattress, not only wash your hands, make a show of you asking the customer if they mind you using their sink to wash your hands adding that you're going to handle their mattress (if another mover has not already asked). This not only keeps their mattress clean (and avoids a customer's disgruntlement), it also serves the main purpose of putting on a show demonstrating to the customer how much care you are taking to keep their mattress clean. Usually, lady customers in particular appreciate this, and earns you lots of easy "points".
#94: Don't walk in the direction the truck is being loaded or unloaded without carrying something.
#95: CUSTOMER DONATED ITEMS.
Customer donated items should be agreed to be dispersed by the Lead in a fair and even manner, and not claimed by any one person without this evaluation and dispersal process. This dispersal process should apply regardless of who was around the customer when the item was donated or who the customer "gave" the item to. This discourages movers from trying to get the customer to give them things, and stops penalizing movers who are elsewhere (up in the truck) doing their job properly instead of buddying up to the customer or trying to hang around the customer more. The fair manner of distribution should first find out who all wants the item, and then aim at evening out the value of who has received what over time, in proportion to how often they work. The more a regular worker has received a lesser value of donated items over time, the more that worker should be able to get what they want when they do finally want something. A secondary factor that should be considered is that items should tend to go to who most needs the item, but not at the expense of evening out value over time if someone far behind on value wants the item. It should not be allowed for the Lead to just take what they want regardless of these factors, because that would be a violation of our agreements (and contract with each other), but as long as the Lead is trying to follow these guidelines (and is in general adherence to them), the Lead should be able to direct and have the final call about the dispersal of items without complaint or negative attitude.
When things are given to friends and family of onsite workers, that counts as value taken by the onsite worker who has those friends and family, meaning this uses up that onsite worker's "credit" for the value of things they've received, as though they got that item. It is not allowed for a worker to take any customer donated item directly to their car without first informing the Lead, because the dispersal process is a protective measure against theft and claims of theft. The Lead should "thank" the customer for the named item, primarily for professionalism but also to double check to make sure there's no mistake and the customer hasn't changed their mind. Once you've accepted a customer donated item (committed to taking it) you must take it, and can not change your mind about it, or you accept the costs of removal and disposal of that item. Crewman should not ask the customer if they are donating something, because that is like asking to be given things, and that can make the whole crew look unprofessional. There should never be a rushed "dibs" calling for who gets a customer offered thing, because this can introduce an unprofessional competition to claim or get things during the job. Instead, workers should express a relaxed appreciative desire for an offered item, with it being clear to the crew that the item goes to who the Lead dispersal process determines, not to who calls dibs first on the item.
#96: Do not talk "bad" about fellow movers, AGMC, or the moving customer; "We could have been done an hour ago". If around only fellow movers, it's OK to talk about the pro's & con's of other movers actions and skills for purposes of discussing techniques and making business decisions, but it's not OK to speak disrespectfully about them or "name call". It's also not OK to tell one mover what another mover said about them, unless it's a compliment. That just causes trouble, sometimes big trouble, all needless.
#97: Have your Lead get a Water Damage Liability Disclaimer before you work on washing machines.
#98: Don't touch the screen of a TV, or tilt a Plasma TV more than 30 degrees, it can ruin the screen.
#99: Let the Lead make the final call. When the Lead directs for something to be done a certain way, it's good to bring up alternative suggestions and concerns, and you should, but when the Lead makes the final call, it needs to be done the way the Lead is directing. It's the Lead that pays for what goes wrong if something goes wrong, and that means in the current job it's the Lead that is making a bet with his money that he won't have to pay a damage claim or need to give the customer a satisfaction discount . Other helpers are not betting their money, and so they do not have the right to gamble the Lead's money on a bet the Lead doesn't want to make. Just like you wouldn't be OK with someone else reaching into your pocket to grab a couple thousand dollars to gamble on some bet THEY choose to make with your money. it's not their money to bet. So if other "experts" with many years of experience want to bet their own money on the gamble of a moving job loss, they need to become Lead on a job. Otherwise, they need to remember who is making the bet with their money, and so who's call it is to make the bet.
#100: KNOW YOUR "REST OF THE BASICS SCORE"
Either on a printed copy of the below check list, or on a copied and pasted computer version of it, put a check mark on the line to the left of each point on the below list of Basics points that you know you are doing regularly, or would do if applicable to your situation, and put an "X" on the line of the point if you think you are not doing the instruction of that point regularly on your jobs (when applicable). Then count up all the check marked points, and that's your Self Evaluated REST OF THE BASICS Score. There's one hundred Basic points, so there's a potential highest Basics Score of 100. This will tell you where you "think" you stand on how well you are doing, and that's a useful thing to know. Newer movers can also use this Basics check list as an abbreviated set of Basic instructions, to double check to see if they are doing these Basics daily or weekly, to help learn the Basics.
After that, you should then ask AGMC to score you on the same below set of Basic points and tell you what AGMC thinks you score on the Basics. That's an even more useful thing to know. And thirdly you should have a conversation with AGMC about which Basics points AGMC scores you differently than you score yourself, and what you could do to work on those particular Basics points. Doing these three things is called a "Basics Check-up". When you first start working with AGMC you should be doing a Basics Check-up within the first couple weeks, then again within the next two months, and then after that you should do a Basics Check-up at least once each year. If you haven't done a Basics Check-up within the these above described time-frames you have not followed this Basics Point #100 instruction.
THE REST OF THE BASICS CHECK LIST
___ #1: UNDERSTAND THIS IS A COMPETITION.
___ #2: BE THE BEST
___ #3: ALWAYS ANSWER YOUR PHONE
___#4: RAPID AND RELIABLE PHONE RESPONSE
___#5: CALL INSTEAD OF TEXT WHEN SPEED IS IMPORTANT
___#6: KEEP AGMC INFORMED OF DEVELOPEMENTS
___#7: DON'T BE OUT OF PHONE CONTACT WITHOUT INFORMING AGMC FIRST
___#8: BE EARLY IN ORDER TO BE ON TIME
___#9: KNOW EFFECTS OF BEING LATE
___#10: KNOW WHY AIM AT BEING TEN MINUTES EARLY
___#11: IF YOU'VE BEEN LATE, OR ARE JUST STARTING, TEXT "UP" 1 HR BEFORE JOB
___#12: USE HELP TO BE ON TIME AND STUDY THIS COURSE IF YOU NEED IT
___#13: HAVE A GOOD WORK ETHIC AND SPEED
___#14: KEEP DOING SOMETHING, DON'T STAND AND WAIT
___#15: DON'T DISSAPEAR WITHOUT INFORMING AND CLOCKING OUT
___#16: KNOW AND DO THE DANCE ROUTINE
___#17: SIGN AND TURN IN A MOVING-HELPER CONTRACT FOR THE CURRENT YEAR.
___#18: READ AND REMEMBER THE TERMS AND CONDITIONS ON THE HELPER LISTING PAGE.
___#19: MAKE A HOMEPAGE LINK ON YOUR PHONE TO THIS TRAINING COURSE.
___#20: BUY OR WIN AGMC UNIFORMS
___#21: WEAR YOUR AGMC UNIFORM TO WORK
___#22: GET YOUR EQUIPMENT SET TOGETHER
___#23: TEXT PICS OF YOUR EQUIPMENT SET TO AGMC
___#24: TEXT YOUR AVAILABILITY SCHEDULE TO AGMC EACH SUNDAY
___#25: REPLY TO JOB TEXTS QUICKLY
___#26: IF YOU ARE LATE SEVERAL TIMES, START TEXTING "UP" TO AGMC AN HOUR EARLY
___#27: AIM AT BEING TEN MINUTES EARLY TO APPOINTMENTS
___#28: CALL AGMC IF YOU'RE GOING TO BE LATE TO AN APPOINTMENT
___#29: IF PICKING UP TRUCK FROM CROSS-TOWN LOCATIOIN, ARRIVE EXTRA EARLY.
___#30: WHEN ARRIVING AT ACROSS-TOWN TRUCK PICK-UP LOCATION, TEXT AGMC ARRIVAL
___#31: WHEN PICKING UP TRUCK, CHECK FOR AND GET NEEDED SUPPLIES AT U-HAUL
___#32:
___#33: IF PICKING UP TRUCK FROM U-HAUL, TEXT CLEAR PHOTO OF CONTRACT TO AGMC
___#34: IF PICKING UP TRUCK FROM SOMEONE ELSE, TEXT PHOTO OF GAS & ODO TO AGMC
___#35: PHOTO-DOCUMENT PREDAMAGE AND PRE-CONDITION OF TRUCK TO AGMC
___#36: CLEAN THE TRUCK RAMP AND FLOOR IF NEEDED
___#37: HAVE AGMC TEST YOU ON YOUR KNOWING THE PRE-LOADING STEPS
___#38: CLOCK IN: TEXT "C" TO AGMC WHEN YOU GET TO THE CUSTOMER'S SITE
___#39: LEARN WHERE THE EQIPMENT GOES
___#40: DROP EVERYTHING TO HELP BACK UP THE TRUCK
___#41: BE AWARE OF PARKING DANGER SPOTS
___#42: USE TRUCK BACKING SIGNALS TO GIVE INFO, NOT JUST DIRECT MOTION.
___#43: WHEN FIRST MEETING CUSTOMER, APPROACH THE CUSTOMER TOGETHER
___#44: DURING WALK-THRU, BE BUISY MEMORIZING CUSTOMER INSTRUCTIONS
___#45: DURING WALK-THRU, LET THE LEAD ASK THE QUESTIONS
___#46: DURING WALK-THRU, MEMORIZE FURNITUE SIZES AND ROOM LOCATIONS
___#47: DURING WALK-THRU, LOOK FOR PREDAMAGE ON WALLS & FLOORS
___#48: DURING WALK-THRU, DO NOT TALK TO FELLOW HELPERS.
___#49: AFTER WALK-THRU, HELP REPOSITION TRUCK IF NEEDED
___#50: IF TRUCK IS NOT LEVEL, HELP PLACE TIRE RAISER BOARDS
___#51: GUIDE DRIVER WITH INFO NOT ONLY ORDERS
___#52: STAGE BLANKETS, PLASTIC WRAP & TAPE IN HOUSE, READY FOR PAD-WRAPPING
___#53: IF EQUIPMENT IS NEEDED TO BE POSITIONED IN TRUCK, DO SO
___#54: LAY OUT RUGS IN ORDER OF DIRTIER TO CLEANER. IF WET, ADD AT TOP OF RAMP
___#55: LEAF BLOW PATH
___#56: PUT UP DOOR AND FLOOR PROTECTION UNLESS TOLD TO SKIP BY LEAD
___#57:
___#58: IF REQUESTED, PAD RAILIINGS & APPLY CARPET PROTECTION FILM ON STAIRS
___
BASICS SCORING TEST
#1: BEST: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#2: PHONE: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#3: ON TIME: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#4: ETHICS: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#5: KEEP BUSY: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#6: DISSAPEAR: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#7: DANCE ROUTINE: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#8: PRE JOB
A) STUDY THIS COURSE: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
B) UNIFORM: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
C) EQUIPMENT: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
D) AVAILABILITY SCHEDULE: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
E) REPLY TO JOB TEXTS: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
F) TEXT UP: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
G) TEN MINUTES EARLY: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
H) CALL BEFORE LATE: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#9: U-HAUL TRUCK PICK UP
A) TEN MINUTES EARLY & U: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
B) GET SUPPLIES: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
C) TEXT PIC OF CONTRACT: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
D) TEXT PIC OF GAS & ODOM: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
E) TEXT PICS OF TRUCK SIDES: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
F) CLEAN RAMP & BED: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#10: ONSITE PREP
A) CLOCK IN: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
B) PHOTO OR KNOW EQUIP SET: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
C) TRUCK BACKING: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
D) TRUCK SIGNALING: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
E) APPROACHING CUSTOMER: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
F) WALK THRU: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
G) MEMORIZE FURNITURE: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
H) DOCUMENT PRE-DAMAGE KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
I) WALK-THRU CONVERSATIONS: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
J) RE-PARK THE TRUCK KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
K) PARKING RAMP: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
L) TRUCK BACKING SIGNALING: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
M) BRING BLANKETS: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
N) EQUIP TRUCK: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
O) IF WET PUT RUGS: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
P) LEAF BLOW KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
Q) DOOR & FLOOR PROTECT: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
R) BRING IN BLANKETS & WRAP: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
S) PAD & FILM STAIRS: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
T) R) CLEAR ISLES: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST:
#11) DOC PRE-EXISTING DAMAGE: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#12: TRUCK LOADING
A) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
B) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
C) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
D) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
E) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
F) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
G) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
H) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
I) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#13: THE TIE OFF WALL
A) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
B) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
C) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
D) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
E) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
F) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#14: AFTER THE MID TIE OFF
A) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
B) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
C) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
D) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
E) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
F) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
G) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
H) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
I) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
J) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
K) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
L) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
ADDITIONAL BASIC MOVERS RULES
#15) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#16) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#17) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#18) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#19) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#20) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#21) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#22) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#23) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#24) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#25) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#26) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#27) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#28) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#29) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#30) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#31) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#32) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#33) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#34) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#35) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#36) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#37) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#38) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
THAT'S IT FOR COURSE #2, THE BASICS
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EXCESS MATERIAL TO BE DELETED BELOW
BASICS SCORING TEST
#1: BEST: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#2: PHONE: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#3: ON TIME: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#4: ETHICS: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#5: KEEP BUSY: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#6: DISSAPEAR: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#7: DANCE ROUTINE: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#8: PRE JOB
A) STUDY THIS COURSE: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
B) UNIFORM: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
C) EQUIPMENT: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
D) AVAILABILITY SCHEDULE: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
E) REPLY TO JOB TEXTS: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
F) TEXT UP: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
G) TEN MINUTES EARLY: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
H) CALL BEFORE LATE: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#9: U-HAUL TRUCK PICK UP
A) TEN MINUTES EARLY & U: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
B) GET SUPPLIES: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
C) TEXT PIC OF CONTRACT: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
D) TEXT PIC OF GAS & ODOM: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
E) TEXT PICS OF TRUCK SIDES: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
F) CLEAN RAMP & BED: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#10: ONSITE PREP
A) CLOCK IN: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
B) PHOTO OR KNOW EQUIP SET: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
C) TRUCK BACKING: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
D) TRUCK SIGNALING: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
E) APPROACHING CUSTOMER: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
F) WALK THRU: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
G) MEMORIZE FURNITURE: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
H) DOCUMENT PRE-DAMAGE KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
I) WALK-THRU CONVERSATIONS: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
J) RE-PARK THE TRUCK KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
K) PARKING RAMP: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
L) TRUCK BACKING SIGNALING: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
M) BRING BLANKETS: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
N) EQUIP TRUCK: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
O) IF WET PUT RUGS: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
P) LEAF BLOW KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
Q) DOOR & FLOOR PROTECT: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
R) BRING IN BLANKETS & WRAP: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
S) PAD & FILM STAIRS: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
T) R) CLEAR ISLES: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST:
#11) DOC PRE-EXISTING DAMAGE: KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#12: TRUCK LOADING
A) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
B) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
C) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
D) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
E) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
F) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
G) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
H) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
I) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#13: THE TIE OFF WALL
A) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
B) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
C) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
D) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
E) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
F) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#14: AFTER THE MID TIE OFF
A) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
B) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
C) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
D) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
E) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
F) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
G) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
H) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
I) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
J) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
K) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
L) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
ADDITIONAL BASIC MOVERS RULES
#15) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#16) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#17) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#18) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#19) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#20) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#21) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#22) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#23) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#24) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#25) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#26) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#27) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#28) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#29) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#30) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#31) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#32) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#33) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#34) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#35) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#36) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#37) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
#38) KNOW: ___ VERBAL TEST: ___ PHYSICAL TEST: ____
THAT'S IT FOR COURSE #2, THE BASICS
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#99: If it's wet outside, wipe your feet on the rugs every time you come in to the house.
#107: Be on the high side of the hand truck if it's a very heavy load, whether you are going up or down a truck ramp or very steep hill.
#108: If your hand truck is empty, carry it over stairs, don't "bang" them down each step.
#112: If the customer is helping, leave the lighter stuff for the customer, and you take the heavier stuff.
#113: When unloading, pay close attention to where the customer says furniture is to be placed so you don't put boxes or other things there that need to be moved a second time, when the "right" item needs to go there.
#114: Keep information about he jobs you've been getting private. The jobs you get is private information that you are not required to tell other movers about, and in fact, is a subject that usually only causes only jealousy, resentment and misunderstandings in other movers who think they should be getting the jobs that YOU earned. It just "stirs the pot" of disgruntlement without them knowing the background reasons of schedule determination. For this reason, it is a good general rule to not tell other movers what jobs you've been getting, and for you to not ask other movers what jobs they've been getting. People are getting the jobs they are earning, with some adjustments to make multiple jobs actually work out with all the factors involved. That's often not an easy puzzle for AGMC to solve, which could have 20 limiting factors that you have no idea about. For this reason, don't complain or bitch to AGMC that you disapprove of who's getting what jobs, or AGMC is not going to want to put up with it.
#94: When carrying a sofa (that the back doesn't come off of) out a tight doorway where there is risk of damage, take the cushions off and tip the sofa with the head rest directly over the knee rest, with the sitting side facing the door-jam not the door. If the legs are still on, hold a hand over the leg that would be in danger of scratching the door. Then "curve" the sofa out the door, armrest going out first, with the soft headrest and knee-rest lightly gliding along the door-jam.
#: Put things down softly, so there is no "thud".
#77: RATCHET STRAP ZIG-ZAG
Ratchet straps should be run behind a rub-railing attachment point that is BEHIND (on the cab side) of the front of the load wall, and then run forward (towards the back door of the truck) to be secured to the next forward rub-railing attachment point (see picture). This also places the metal ratchet and hook tucked under and behind the rub-railing instead of out where they can damage things.
This zig-zag angle pulls both rub-railing anchor points near parallel to the side of the truck instead of straight out from the side (perpendicular), making the anchor points able to withstand about twenty times the weight compared to a strap run straight across from one rub railing to the other.
Cranking a ratchet strap straight across the truck (as shown here) not only places the ratchet in a place much more likely to cause damage, it also pulls a dangerous amount of pressure on the wooden rail that is not designed for that direction of pull, and so risks weakening or breaking the rail, and so is disrespectful and not fair to the truck owner or customer.
#85: TEAM MEETING
It's right at the end of a job when it's most fresh in everyone's mind exactly what were the things that went most wrong. This is why, right at the end of most larger jobs, is the best time to have a team meeting. If there's a good number of blankets to fold, the Lead is supposed to gather the crew together to fold the blankets together, and while doing so the Lead is supposed to start a conference call to Phil at AGMC, putting Phil on loud-speaker. If the blankets are already folded then just take a couple minute break for the phone call. Here people should be telling the whole team what stood out as being the area they saw that would most help to improve the job (what went most wrong). With each thing mentioned we talk about solutions. This is just like a Pro football team game-review meeting.